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Crossing the Threshold: Dembo Kanjo
A chill bit the tip of my nose as the shadows lengthened, the late afternoon sunlight bathing the red leaves of Mt. Koya in sublime gold. Dressed in the black robe and orange nyoho-e I'd put on at my ordination and stained with sweat during Shido Kegyo training, I was now standing at the threshold of Hoju-in , the venue for Dembo Kanjo . The big event was set for the next day; today all the participants would draw water from a sacred well for use in the ceremony. Kanjo , in
Nov 88 min read


Shingon Precepts: Lotuses from Mud
The rainstorm beating Mt. Koya had turned the trail to Shimbessho, the venue for the annual Precepts Ceremony, into a gushing stream of mud. A priest ahead of me splashed his way along the brook in toothed sandals called geta , while I found myself regretting my decision to come in sneakers, which were soaked. In spite of the rain, someone had taken the trouble to come and light a thick candle before a stone statue of Jizo, seated on a lotus. After a slippery climb, the clus
Oct 308 min read


Shingon Training: My Shido Kegyo
Sacred Flames I moved to Japan primarily because I was interested in Buddhism. At college in Kansas City I encountered and practiced occasionally with some meditation groups, and though I was fascinated by the aesthetics of Zen could never seem to hammer down a good meditation routine. On the other hand, I found myself almost weekly in a section of the Nelson Atkins Museum of Art in which a Chinese temple hall is fully reconstructed around one of the world's most well-known
Oct 2110 min read


Buddhas of the Henro: Bishamonten
Bishamonten (Sanskrit"Vaiśravaṇa") has been one of Japan's most popular deities since Buddhism's arrival in the 6th century. Dressed in a warrior's armor, he holds a spear in his right hand and a Stupa or "Treasure Tower" in his left.
May 106 min read


Buddhas of the Henro: Kannon
An image of Kannon from the Chichibu Kannon Pilgrimage Route Kanzeon (more commonly Kannon), the Bodhisattva of Compassion, is the most-represented Buddha on the Henro, enshrined as the main deity at 29 of the pilgrimage's 88 main temples (over a third!). The Bodhisattva's name as rendered into Sino-Japanese means "The Perceiver of the World's Sounds," referring to the way the Bodhisattva lends a compassionate ear to us suffering in samsara. Whenever I hear this, I think of
Feb 245 min read


Buddhas of the Henro: Fudō
He sits or stands on a boulder surrounded by an aureole of flame. His name, “Fudō,” simply means “Unmoved.”
Jun 22, 20243 min read


Buddhas of the Henro: Shaka Nyorai
The first deity we encounter on the pilgrimage is the one who started it all.
May 23, 20244 min read


Generosity outside the box
It'll be no secret to you that we live in tough economic times. So much of the discourse surrounding dāna or generosity centers on money,...
Feb 6, 20244 min read


Small Advice and Baby Steps
Researching the Shikoku Henro seems like an endless collection of lists, with all the temple names and deities, the costume elements, the...
Nov 8, 20233 min read
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